By Bijan, Your Go-To Water Pump Expert
It’s a feeling I know all too well because I’ve heard it in a customer’s voice a thousand times. It’s that moment you turn a faucet handle, expecting the familiar gush of water, and you get… nothing. Maybe a sad sputter, maybe just silence. Your mind immediately jumps to a dry well or a thousand-dollar repair bill.
Before you go there, take a breath. My name is Bijan, and for over twenty years, my world has been water pumps. I’ve spent countless hours on the phone and in damp basements walking homeowners just like you through the diagnostic process. More often than not, the fix is simpler than you think.
Let’s not get ahead of ourselves. Before you even think about touching your equipment, we need to walk through a logical checklist. This is the exact same process I use to troubleshoot a well pump, and it’s designed to save you time, stress, and money.
A Critical First Step: Safety and Power
I can’t say this loudly enough: water and electricity are a fatal combination. Before you touch a single part of your well system, you must go to your home’s main circuit breaker panel and shut off the power to your well pump.
Your well pump will be on a dedicated, double-pole breaker. It will look like two switches connected by a single bar. Flip it to the “OFF” position. If you are even slightly unsure which breaker it is, turn off the main breaker to the entire house. No water for an hour is better than a trip to the emergency room. Safety is not optional.
The 5-Step Well Pump Troubleshooting Checklist
With the power safely off, we can now play detective. Let’s work from the easiest and most common culprits to the more complex.
Step 1: The Power Check (Is Anyone Home?)
It sounds basic, I know. But you would be amazed at how many “broken” pumps are simply not getting power.
- Check the Breaker: Even though you just turned it off, check it first. Did you find it already in the “tripped” (middle) or “off” position? A tripped breaker can signal an electrical issue, like a short in the wiring or a seized pump motor. For now, just note its position before you turned it off.
- Inspect the Pressure Switch: Look at the pressure switch (usually a small gray or black box mounted on a pipe near your pressure tank). Is there a separate, small disconnect or switch box near it? Ensure it’s in the “on” position.
- Look for a Reset Button: Some older above-ground jet pumps have a small overload reset button on the motor housing. If you have one, press it once.
If you found the breaker tripped, there’s a reason. Don’t just keep flipping it back on. Let’s continue the diagnosis.
The Pressure Switch (The Brains of the Operation)
The pressure switch is the brain of your system. It reads the water pressure in the tank and tells the pump when to turn on and off. When it fails, the whole operation comes to a halt.
With the power still off, use a screwdriver to remove the cover (usually one nut on top). Look at the electrical contacts inside. Do they look clean, or are they black, pitted, and corroded? Sometimes, an ant or other debris can get stuck in there, preventing the contacts from closing. If they look severely burnt, you’ve likely found your culprit. This is a common point of failure and, thankfully, an inexpensive part to replace.
Step 3: The Pressure Tank (The Lungs of the System)
Your big, blue or gray pressure tank does more than just hold water; it holds pressurized water. This prevents your pump from turning on and off every single time you open a faucet (a problem we call “short cycling”).
A faulty pressure tank is a primary cause of pump trouble. Here’s a simple check:
- Gently push against the top of the tank. Does it feel solid and top-heavy, or can you easily rock it? A waterlogged tank will be very heavy and won’t budge.
- Find the air valve on top of the tank (it looks just like the one on a car tire). Gently press the pin in the middle for just a second. If a burst of water comes out instead of air, the internal bladder has ruptured. The tank is waterlogged and needs to be replaced.
A bad pressure tank will cause the pump to short cycle, which will quickly burn out the motor and damage the pressure switch.
H4: Step 4: Visual Inspection (What Do Your Eyes Tell You?)
Take a good look around the entire system. You’re looking for anything out of the ordinary.
- Are there puddles of water or signs of active leaks on the floor around the pump or tank?
- Is there visible corrosion on the pipes or fittings?
- Look at the pressure gauge on your system. Does it read zero? Or is it stuck at a certain pressure?
H5: Step 5: Listen Closely (The Sounds of Trouble)
If you get through the first four steps and haven’t found a clear issue, it’s time to (safely) use your ears. Go back to the breaker, make sure everyone is clear of the equipment, and turn the power back on for a moment. What do you hear?
- A Hum, then a Click: If the pump hums for a few seconds and then you hear a “click” from the breaker, the pump motor is likely seized or has an electrical short. Turn the power off immediately.
- Rapid Clicking: A series of rapid click-click-click sounds from the pressure switch is the classic sound of a waterlogged pressure tank.
- Grinding or Gravelly Noises: This often means the pump’s bearings are shot or it’s trying to pump sand and sediment from the bottom of your well.
- Pump Runs Non-Stop: If the pump turns on and just keeps running without shutting off, you likely have a major leak somewhere (either in the house or underground) or the pump itself is worn out and can no longer reach the cut-off pressure.
Decoding the Symptoms: A Quick-Reference Chart
To make it even easier, here’s a chart that connects common symptoms to their likely causes. This is a great starting point for a conversation with a pro.
| Symptom | Possible Cause(s) | What It Usually Means |
|---|---|---|
| No Water at All | No Power, Failed Pressure Switch, Seized Motor, Low Well Level | The system isn’t starting at all or the pump is unable to move water. |
| Low Water Pressure | Clogged Filter, Failing Pump, Leak in System, Bad Pressure Tank | Water is moving, but inefficiently. The system can’t build up to full pressure. |
| Pump Cycles On/Off Rapidly | Waterlogged/Failed Pressure Tank, Bad Check Valve | The pump isn’t getting the right signals to stay on or off, often due to a lack of air cushion. |
| Sputtering Faucets | Leak in the drop pipe (in the well), Low Well Level, Failing Check Valve | Air is getting into the system somewhere between the pump and your house. |
| Dirty or Gritty Water | Pump is too low in the well, Failing Well Screen, Issue with Well Casing | The pump is pulling in sand and sediment instead of just clean water. |
When the Checklist Isn’t Enough: Time to Call the Pros
This checklist can solve a surprising number of issues. However, you need to know when to put the tools down and call for professional help. If your troubleshooting points to any of these scenarios, it’s time to make the call:
- Any electrical issue beyond a tripped breaker. This includes burned contacts on the pressure switch, suspected bad wiring, or a faulty control box.
- You suspect the problem is down in the well. If you think you have a leak in the drop pipe or the pump itself has failed, it needs to be pulled by a professional with the right equipment.
- The breaker keeps tripping. This signals a serious electrical fault that needs expert diagnosis.
- You’ve gone through the checklist and are still stumped.
Running through these steps will, at the very least, help you have a much more informed conversation with a technician, potentially saving time and diagnostic fees. Your well pump is the heart of your home’s water supply, and giving it the right attention will keep the water flowing for years to come.